Grandmother’s Button Box

It’s late March and the weather hasn’t been very conducive to bringing out the spring bonnet, so I spent one Sunday sorting out some closets. One of the things that I had to move was my sewing box. On top of that box sat an old friend… my grandmother’s button box, in an old fruitcake tin. Over the years the box has changed from being worn out from use, and the contents have grown somewhat. Some of the buttons are still on their original cards when they were purchased years ago, but many are recycled from past articles of clothing.

My fondest memory of this box is it being given to me, to look at as a very small child, one cold winter day when Mom had errands and she left me with Gram. In those days the old farmhouse kitchen was heated with a wood stove, which has a wonderful spot just big enough for my little chair behind the stove.

I would sit for hours looking at all the wonderful colored buttons in that box, many of them being handed down from my great-grandmother. My grandmother could tell which garment most of the buttons were from. We had many discussions about the clothing and the person who wore that particular fashion with what button. Most of the time there were wonderful stories of balls and special dances. My family may have been from the country but they were quite the social butterflies, at times attending many functions in and around Franklin County. I can remember watching my grandmother sitting at the sewing machine, creating beautiful dresses and outfits for my mother, her sister and myself. Gram was an accomplished seamstress, and had even taken a tailoring course in Boston at some point in her busy life. We never lacked play clothes, day dresses and evening wear when the occasion called for it.

The button box was never very far away, and sometimes I had the dubious honor of picking those special buttons. When Gram’s household was broken up, the button box was one of the things that I requested for myself. I’ve kept it all these years, using the buttons for my daughters when they were growing up. I don’t sew much these days, so the box has been kept in the closet.

I suppose button collectors would have a hay day with the buttons in the box, many of them dating to the early 1900s, but I find the memories too great, and I hope to pass the box on to one of my daughters or possibly a granddaughter. Not many people take the time to remove buttons from an old shirt or dresses theses days, but I can tell you, they are missing out on memories of their own.

Fred and BJ Gonet’s 1908 Type “E” Locomobile

fred gonetThe Locomobile automobile (1900-1929) finds its evolution linked to the indomitable and identical Stanley twins, F.E. and F.O. In 1896, after re-locating their successful photographic dry plate business to Watertown, Ma., from Kingfield, Me., the Stanleys started experimenting with a steam propulsion automobile and by 1899, were building cars for the public. In the same year, the Editor and Publisher of Cosmopolitan Magazine, John Walker, was also I interested in getting into the burgeoning automobile business, and approached the Stanley brothers with an offer to purchase their company. After repeated offers and their constant refusal to sell, the Stanleys were quickly tiring of the annoying Mr. Walker. In an attempt to get rid of him, they countered with an exorbitant price of $250,000 ( $7.1 million today) and a term of 10 days. To their surprise, Walker jumped at it, and along with Amzi Barber, ”the asphalt king”, purchased the company from the Stanleys and changed its name to Locomobile. With only a one-year “non-compete clause” in the sales agreement, the wiley Stanleys were right back in business.

1908 locomobile type eWithin the year, Walker and Barber split, after Barber discovered that he had been hoodwinked into paying the full $250,000, and Walker had invested nothing. Barber ended up owning Locomobile outright, and moved it to Bridgeport, Ct. Walker went on to build the Mobile steam car in Tarrytown, NY., but by 1903, he was finished. Barber desperately needed someone who knew more about automobiles than he did, so he hired an electrician/mechanic by the name of Andrew Ricker, who then traveled to Europe to “observe” automobile designs, specifically Mercedes. Locomobile continued with both steam and gasoline engines until 1905, when they switched to gas engines exclusively, fighting several Mercedes patent infringements along the way due to Ricker’s keen sense of “observation”. The “Type E” was designed for this year and continued through 1908, with many mechanical improvements. It utilized a 15/20 HP “T Head” four cylinder engine, dual chain drive rear axles, and a 3 speed sliding gear transmission, which evolved into a four speed selective gear transmission in 1908. Ignition was a “make and break” type running off the intake camshaft, with the hammer and anvil spark inside the combustion chamber. Spark timing was adjusted by sliding the cam back and forth. (Google “make and break engine” and watch Greg Cone demonstrate his 1908 Matheson’s “make and brake” engine). Locomobile’s slogan was “Easily The Best Built Car In America”. They were indeed, exceptionally well built and expensive, utilizing bronze castings for the crankcase, transmission case, steering box, etc. Although only a 15/20 HP engine, the “T Head” accelerates to a very comfortable cruising speed of 45 MPH, as was evidenced on my recent Fall day outing.

The story behind Fred and BJ’s Locomobile is filled with all sorts of characters. Soon after WWII, a widow from Wycliffe, NJ. contacted Henry Austin Clark, who owned the Long Island Automobile Museum, and wanted to get rid of her late husband’s 1908 Locomobile. She would be willing to part with it for $1, just to make the transaction legal. This was common at the time and many cars were acquired this way after the war. The famous opera singer and collector, James Melton had many people give him early cars. Remember, these vehicles were only 40 years old at the time and pretty well “used and abused”. Apparently Clark took the car and in ’52 sold it to Lou Schaffer, also of Glen Cove, Long Island. Schaffer spent the next 2 years “restoring” the Locomobile. Having only 1905 literature, he made fenders and acquired items that fit the earlier style. In the early ‘50’s, restorations would often copy the oldest styles trying to make them as “antique” as possible. Schaffer finished the restoration in time to participate in the 1954 Glidden tour. Ironically, Fred Gonet grew up only 3 miles from the Locomobile he would eventually own 30 years later. In 1956 it was sold to a John Snyder, who in turn sold it to his son in Scarsdale, NY.

Enter, the infamous character Morris Burrows who had a summer house in Springfield, Vt. Morris was a brilliant, yet quite eccentric mechanical engineer. He was known to have bought a new Porsche 911 when they were first introduced in 1963, ordering an extra engine with it so he could dismantle it to study how it was constructed. Being a subscriber to Car and Driver, in 1963 he came across an ad for a 1908 Locomobile. For some time he had decided he would like a brass era automobile and decided that Locomobile was a car worthy of him. He paid the lofty sum of $1200, and the Locomobile moved to Vt. Morris and his wife drove the car many miles over the next several years. In 1970, his wife passed away, and he re-married, but his new bride was afraid to ride in the car because it lacked front doors, so the Locomobile was put up on blocks in the basement. During this time, Fred Gonet had moved to Vt. and became involved with antique automobiles and motorcycles, eventually starting what is today known as G & G Restorations of Proctorsville, Vt., with his cousin John.

As time went on, Fred let it be known that he would like to find a brass era car. Every year, Harry Olney (Gary’s father) would register and insure his 1910 Reo for Fred to drive around during the summer, but he wasn’t interested in selling. Along comes Ruffus Estey, an old car guy who is a friend of both Morris Burrows and Fred. Morris is now in his 80’s and ill, and Ruffus informs him that he knows of a very knowledgeable young enthusiast that would be a good candidate for the Locomobile. Morris is kind of an irascible old fellow who was known to scold people if they ventured too close to one of his antiques, didn’t especially like children, and could otherwise be a grumpy old curmudgeon( like many of us). Morris agrees to let Ruffus introduce Fred. Being a quick study and fearing the worst, Fred does his homework on Locomobiles. After the introduction, Morris starts grilling Fred, asking him about his feelings on certain engineering aspects regarding the Type E Locomobile, what his plans for the car would be, what he thought about the incorrect 1905 style fenders and the other incorrectly dated items on the car, etc. After a few hours, the meeting ended. Several days later, another meeting, and more questions for Fred. This goes on a few more times, and now Morris wants to meet BJ, Fred’s wife. The meeting goes well, and Morris actually asks BJ if she would like to sit in the car (still up on blocks). BJ looks at Fred, he shrugs, and so up she climbs into the Locomobile. Morris is concerned that she might feel uncomfortable about the lack of front doors, but BJ is unfazed. As the meeting draws to a close, Morris states he would like to meet their 2 children. Knowing of his unwavering love of children, Fred and BJ agreed, and hoped for the best. Well, as it turned out Morris liked the kids, invited them to also sit in the car and the rest is history. Fred and BJ finally signed the adoption papers in 1985, and enjoyed driving the Locomobile for the next year. At the end of 1986, Fred started a total frame up restoration.

1908 locomobile type eUsing cardboard templates, he was able to recreate the correct compound curves on both the front and rear fenders before hammering out new ones. Finding an original 1908 owner’s manual (with Morris) at the Bennington car show, Fred was able to fabricate all the other correct pieces for 1908 that he needed for the restoration. Through good luck and perseverance, he was able to find the original box of discarded “make and break” items that had been taken off the engine in 1952 and eventually sold to Walter McCarthy. If you look on page 893 of The Standard Catalog Of American Cars, you will see a picture of Fred’s 1908 Locomobile taken by Henry Austin Clark shortly after its “restoration” in 1952. Notice the 1905 style ”chopped off” fenders. There are only 7 surviving examples of the Type E Locomobiles, and only this one for 1908. To date, Fred, BJ and family have driven over 40k miles throughout New England and Canada, a true testament to Fred’s meticulous restoration of an exceptional automobile.

A Nice Fall Day On The Roads

vermont fall motoring tourThe Gypson Tour on Saturday, October 3rd, was a delightful ride. Wow!

Who, besides Bob and Wendy Chase, knew all those scenic roads even existed. They did a great job of arranging such nice weather for it also. We knew it would be a bit nippy so we came in a closed car, figuring that no one would be bold enough to bring an open car. Seeing Eric Osgood bundled up in Silver Annie and Gael Boardman with his Volkswagen “Thing” put us to shame.

The directional clues were insidiously clever. I’m pretty sure nobody got them all and that’s the way it ought to be. I was the “navigator”, trying to keep us going in the right direction(s). If we met a VAE car going the other way, we would figure we were going the wrong way, turn around, and try again.

Turning around was a challenge in itself due to October Fest traffic – where’s power steering when you need it? But the scenery was beautiful, when I had a chance to look, even though that look would make me miss a clue answer. With a few wrong turns, we probably saw more scenery than was intended. Anyway we ended up at the Commodore Inn’s back parking lot and finally gave in and opened “the envelope to find out where we should have ended up ” – duh!! That’s where we were supposed to be. What a lot of clever thinking Bob and Wendy put into those clues – thank you, thank you- it was a great tour. Whoever scores the highest gets to arrange next year’s tour and will have a hard time topping this one. I’m pretty sure it won’t be us.

Bill Sander’s “other hobby”

General Motors SW1500 Diesel

Bill's Lionel Train LayoutBill Sander got the “green light” from his wife Jan, about 10 years ago….at least he went with his interpretation.

Bill had been into the Lionel train hobby for some time when one day there was a comment of him maybe getting a full sized train. Jan made a comment about “that happening will be the day he could find one that fits into his garage” Bill says that was the day he envi-sioned his “mission” and of course that led to a step-up from Lionel… the 7 1/2 inch gauge model train! It fits into the garage just fine and you can ride on it.

The red locomotive on the front page is a model of a General Motors SW1500 Diesel. This unit and a second Elco RS3 model that Bill has were the two main work horses used on Vermont rail roads. They were built much closer to Road Switcher specifications and not yard switchers and were very capable of pulling their loads through our hills and valleys. There were 808 SW1500s built by GM from 1966 to 1974 and the 1500 HP engine was capable of reaching speeds of 60 MPH. The Alco RS-3 is the 3rd design variation and continued to the RS-11 design. The RS-3 was built by the American Locomotive Company and the Montreal Locomotive Works and has a 1600 HP engine. Between 1950 and 1956 there were 1418 built, 1265 for American railroads, 98 for Canada, 48 for Brazil and 7 for Mexico.

Bill’s SW1500 locomotive is powered by a gas 17 HP Briggs and Stratton engine and rides of tracks seven and a half inch wide. The 7 1/2 inch tracks are used mostly in the western states and is said to follow the example of Walt Disney’s layout in California. The eastern modelers mostly use 7 1/4 inch tracks….. Bill went with the western tradition. Bill’s model is hydraulically powered by both the wheels under the locomotive and the wheels under the second car, it has reverse, lights and a recorded sound track of the real deal as he moves along his 450 feet of track.

Making non-ethanol gas out of ethanol gas (E10) – Dave’s Garage

Dave was super busy this month so the staff at Wheel Tracks decided to go with a story that Wendell Nobel mentioned about making non-ethanol gas out of ethanol gas (E10). The hope is that members will not try the process but instead will more thoroughly understand this ethanol problem that we have.

Wendell Noble tells a story of an article he read of someone in the Northeast Kingdom removing ethanol from his gas for his chainsaw use. The gent simply adds water to five gallons of the dreaded E10 gas. The water speeds the separation of the ethanol and settles to the bottom of the gas can. The gent then siphoned off the non-ethanol gas on the top. He uses the “stuff” on the bottom, the water and ethanol mix, to wash his windows! (who wodda guessed). Here is a more detailed process taken from an internet story……

How to make your own ethanol-free gasoline… Ethanol is the scourge of owners of old cars, motorcycles, boats, and many other gasoline-operated vehicles and implements. E10 (10% ethanol) is pretty much the only available gasoline in most of the country now, with a few stations offering ethanol-free gas. And E15 (15% ethanol) is coming soon, recently approved by the EPA for 2001 and newer cars – even though the car manufacturers don’t want it. You can thank the ethanol lobby for that.

What’s the problem with ethanol? The biggest problem is phase separation. Like brake fluid, ethanol is hygroscopic, which means it bonds very easily to water. If there is moisture in the air (which there always is), the moisture bonds with the ethanol. The combination of water and ethanol is heavier than gasoline, so it falls to the bottom of the gas tank, where the pickup is. Let it sit for any length of time, particularly with a partially-full gas tank (because the air space left will contain moisture, and will expand and contract with heat, sucking in more moisture-laden air), and your tank will have a layer of water/ethanol mixture on the bottom. This is called phase separation. Guess what gets sucked into your engine the next time you start it? The water/ethanol mixture will burn in your engine, but it will burn much leaner and hotter, with the potential for serious engine damage as a result. Ethanol is particularly corrosive to plastics, rubber, aluminum and fiberglass when compared to straight gasoline.

So what is the solution? Well, you can check out the web site http://pure-gas.org to try to find a gas station near you that sells ethanol-free gas. Hint: many boat marinas sell ethanol-free gas, because with the added moisture in a boating environment, E10 plays havoc with boat engines. How do you remove the ethanol from E10? It’s quite simple, actually – just add water! Remember, ethanol bonds strongly to water. All you need to do is add some water to the gasoline, agitate to make sure it mixes well, then let it sit for a few minutes. The water will bond with the ethanol, and it will phase-separate out, falling to the bottom of the container. So how much water do you add? It depends on a few things, including the actual concentration of ethanol (which will vary – it’s seldom exactly 10%), and ambient temperature. Dave’s testing shows that the optimal amount of water is 2% by volume of the E10. That’s 2.56 oz per gallon, or 12.8 ounces for a five-gallon gas can. Remember that extra water will simply separate out, so two cups (16 ounces) of water in a five-gallon gas can is safe. You should use distilled water only, to avoid leaving behind any minerals or other additives that your engine may not like (does fluoride keep your carburetors clean?).

Please folks, Wheel Tracks suggests that you do not try this procedure.
Isn’t it amazing the lengths folks have gone to operate their gas engines without E10?

One wonders if you line up twenty politicians in a row and ask why we have ethanol in our gas, what ridiculous answers we would hear.


Please email all inquiries to: Dave
or snail mail
32 Turkey Hill Road
Richmond VT 05477

1910 Stoddard Dayton 10H Roadster

1910 STODDARD-DAYTONThe Stoddard-Dayton Motor Car Company started out, as many early auto manufactures did, as a farm implement company in 1875 originating in Dayton, Ohio. As the automobile craze grew in the 1890’s, John and Charles Stoddard caught the fever and by 1904, with the help of a young English engineer, H.J. Edwards, launched their pilot model with a 4 cyl. Rutenber engine. Stoddards were a well-built automobile and soon orders outpaced production.

Unfortunately, in 1910, Stoddard made the fatal mistake of joining the automobile conglomerate of Benjamin Briscoe’s United States Motors, an eventual failed attempt to compete with Willy Durant’s General Motors. By 1913, the high-end Stoddard was dropped from the line and only Maxwell remained. Today, there are approximately 30 Stoddards known to exist and only 3 Stoddard Roadster 10H’s.

For the 1910 production year there were 3 different engines; 30, 40 and 50 HP, and 8 body styles; roadster, baby tonneau, coupe, touring, torpedo, landaulet*, limousine and town car. This Stoddard Roadster 10H has a 3 7/8” x 4 ½“ hemispherical combustion 4 cyl engine developing 30+ HP. The valves are 2”, each pair operated by a unique single rocker arm on top of the cylinder jugs, resembling a walking-beam steam engine when in operation. It has a true twin ignition using a Bosch magneto, Connecticut coils and 8 spark plugs. It sold new for $1500, compared to a Model T at the time for about $800.

The history behind this car is that it was discovered in an abandoned mine property in the West around 1940 and being recognized as a quality early automobile, was spared from the scrap drive of WWII. It passed through several hands until it ended up with the infamous antique car dealer, Art Burrichter in 1967. A collector from Pa. purchased it, and then sold it to his son 2 years lat-er. The son spent the next 9 years scavenging for parts and fabricating the ones he couldn’t find. Fortunately, in 1970, a sister Stoddard 10H was unearthed in upstate New York, so any needed patterns became available. In 1978, the restoration was completed and the Stoddard was taken to Hershey where it was awarded a National 1st Prize. Having only been driven a few times around the block, it was sold to another collector in Pa. who had seen it at Hershey. Apparently this gentleman took the car out once and had a carburetor backfire which scorched the side of the hood. After re-painting part of the hood, he parked it, and the car languished in a corner of his barn for the next 32 years. When the owner died, his family started slowly selling off his automobile collection and this is when I got wind of the Stoddard. Fortunately, one buyer was dealing with the family quietly and fairly, so the word never got out about the sale of these vehicles, or even the existence of this Stoddard. After a couple of years of patiently waiting, the family finally agreed to sell the car and I wasted no time.

After getting it back to Vt., I started calling all the Stoddard collectors to find out more about the car. To my amazement everyone had lost contact with this car and wondered what had ever become of it. I feel very fortunate indeed to have been in the right place at the right time. Presently, the engine is out and apart, aluminum pistons ordered, the transmission mounts modified to handle the twisting, the shifter shaft and transmission re-aligned, the clutch relined, the rear end adjusted, etc. I felt the 7” headlights were too small, so I set about procuring the 10” Gray and Davis ones on it now. I pounded out the dents and converted them to the early magnifier-type headlights by taking the lenses out of a couple of magnifying glasses and making the brass bezels and tri-pod supports to hold them in place. The convex lenses are from a clock-parts supplier in Oregon. A little buffing, and “Voila”, new headlights. And so, as you know, on and on it goes!

Antique Clothing Collectors Criteria

Collecting antique clothing can be lots of fun and rewarding. To avoid costly mistakes here are some guides to use.

  • Condition: Inspect the fabric carefully, a small tear could mean something larger later. Look for repairs, as sometimes these are not done in the best interest of the fabric. A garment in mint condition could fetch a higher price, but might be a better investment in the long run.
  • Style: Does the garment have beautiful lines and is it well made?
  • Design: Vintage clothing should have clear lines, quality of structure, color and texture.
  • Structure: How a garment, or fabric is made is crucial to determining the age and price.
  •  Material: What is it made of, or from? Is there more than one type of workmanship involved, and is the material and workmanship still used today?
  • Quality: Thought in designing or the care given in workmanship can never be underestimated.

When shopping for vintage clothing have a tape measure handy to measure clothing size and fabric length. Standardized sizing started in the forties as a result of fabric rationing during the war. Taking measurements is the best way to size a garment. Look carefully for rust stains on whites and perspiration stains on all clothing before you purchase, because they are not easy to remove.

But, most of all have fun looking for that great vintage outfit!

1988 Buick Reatta

14 year old VAE member, Jason Warren and his Reatta, are winners at our 58th Car Show in Stowe

Jason Warren and his ReattaI was very excited to find out I had won 3rd place with my 1988 Buick Reatta having entered it in class 21 for non-Ford, Non-Chevy, all, for 1966-1990 model years.  I had my car entered for judging last year, but was not available during the judging process and I think this may have hurt my chances. This year I made sure to be with my car because the judges had a lot of questions.

I bought my Reatta in 2014 with money I had earned from a part time job I’ve had since I was 11 (I’m 14 now). I found the car in Fairfax, VT and paid $640.00 for it. The body of the car was and is in very good condition mainly because the front fenders are made from a plastic polymer and the remaining body panels are double sided galvanized steel. With over 185,000 miles on the car, the complete suspension, braking, and exhaust systems needed to be replaced. As my dad completed repairs on one side of the car, I would try to repeat the process on the other side. Sometimes things worked out, sometimes not so much.

I think I chose to buy a Reatta because our family already had two 1991’s and I thought it would be neat to have my own. I like the styling and all the digital instrumentation including a fully functional CRT touch screen that controls the radio, climate control, gauges, trip computer, and full onboard engine diagnostics.

1988 was the first year of production for the Buick Reatta and 4708 were hand built that year at the Craft Center in Lancing, Michigan. All Reattas’ are front wheel drive and used GM’s popular and “bullet proof” 3.8L V6 engine with a 4spd automatic transmission. The engine produces 165HP but the car weighs 3400 lbs so with these specs, it’s performance although acceptable, is lack luster compared to its sporty appearance. I am real happy with my Reatta, but if I could choose any vehicle to own, it would be a Mercedes Benz Unimog.

I will be a Freshman at Lamoille Union High School this fall and have plans to enter into the Auto Tech Center for my Junior and Senior year. My favorite subject in school is science and I think I would like to have a future in either automotive or motor sport repair. I like all things with engines especially if they are vintage. I’m already looking forward to working at and bringing my car back to the Antique & Classic Car Meet next year.

1928 Hupmobile – Dave’s Garage

Dear Dave, I have a ’28 Hupmobile that is not coming out of it’s winter cocoon too well!

It has gas, I have spark, & I believe we’ve got air, but maybe you can help me figure out what I can do to make it run. I have charged the battery. When I depress the starter toe switch it engages the starter & occasionally it “catches” and runs and then sputters out. My Hup manual says to bring a car that’s sat idle for a while back to life, it is recommended to put 2 tablespoons of oil down each cylinder (take plug out, pour oil in, put plug back on), this will create vacuum so carb can suck gas from the vacuum system (which worked like a charm last year). And it worked ok for a little while this year, but after it burns out the oil, the car doesn’t stay running.

I tried spraying starter fluid down the throat of the carb….it worked for a little duration, but didn’t stay running. When I gave it more gas to get the idle up, it would sputter and die. I checked to see if we’re getting gas from the tank, I did this by disconnecting the hose that comes off the vacuum canister on the firewall. With the spigot open, we get plenty of gas out of the canister. I also unscrewed the strainer plug (this car has a Stromberg sf-2 carb) off the top of the carb to see if we had gas there, oh, we’ve got plenty of gas there…..Could it be the float is sticking or is stuck or is sunk in the carb?

So I’m at a loss. There seems to be a screw on the bottom of the carb….perhaps I can unscrew that to release all the gas in the carb & it will move the internal debris so the float might work better? Or should I just remove the whole carburetor and carefully take it apart, clean all the bits and pieces and reassemble it? Any insights would be helpful.

Respectfully, Chris Chartier

 

Chris,

It sounds like you have done enough trouble shooting to trace the problem to the carburetor. You are getting fuel, you are getting spark, and you have enough compression to start the engine.

It is very common for a carburetor to be gummed up after being in storage. You could also have a float issue. The float could either be sunken or stuck. The needle valve could also be sticking. The first thing I would check is the float level. You can easily tell if the float has a hole in it. It will not rise to the top of the float bowl, and when shaken you can hear and feel gas in it. If the float has a hole in it, you can also remove it and usually see gasoline weeping out of a crack or a hole. If you find a crack or a hole, and the float is brass, you can temporarily fix it with J.B Weld, or carefully solder it with a soldering iron to make it function until you get a new float.

If the needle valve is sticking, the float will float, but the needle valve will not shut off. This will cause the carb to flood out.

If everything checks out with the float and the needle valve, I would suspect the main jet next. If the jet has any gum, varnish or debris in it, it will not allow the fuel to atomize and the engine will not run. It is common to find small particles in the bottom of the float bowl, and often in the jet too. I would remove the jet and visually inspect it. Clean the jet and the bottom of the float bowl out really well with carburetor cleaner, then blow the jet out with compressed air.

You may need to obtain a gasket set or a carb rebuild kit to clean the carburetor and get it to function well again.


Please email all inquiries to: Dave
or snail mail
32 Turkey Hill Road
Richmond VT 05477

Our Big Shew

A little history about our 58 year-old Car Show in Stowe

Using available records, the August 1960 show was advertised as the “VAE Third Summer Invitational Rally at Stowe”. That year the gathering was a two-day event with a Back-road Tour and a supper barbecue on Saturday the 6th. After supper a WC Fields movie was viewed called “Hurry, Hurry, Hurry”. Later a barbershop quartet performed and a square dance was called by Mr. Bill Chattin. On Sunday was the auto judging and award presentations.

Wheel Tracks has no records of the 1st and 2nd Rally in Stowe. If anyone would like to share their records for 1958 and 1959, that information will be published.

Our next glimpse at the Show in Stowe is 1971, billed as the “14th Annual Stowe Meet”. Over 300 cars were on display. There was mention of a new parade route, causing some confusion, but all was forgiven when everyone enjoyed the “banner supper and the film viewing” Saturday evening. It was reported that the “new flea-market was well vendered and well attended, although falling victim to frequent rain showers”.

The Fall issue of Wheel Tracks, 1980 is our next view of the show. There were 361 cars in attendance with over fifty Woodies among them. Mr. Russ Snow was the chairman and reported a record was set with 250 flea market spaces. 1980 was Russ’s second year as chair and he announced that he would like to have someone take his place the next year.

The next Wheel Tracks that mentions the show in Stowe was the 1984 issue. It had become a three day event by then and that year Dave Gonyon was chair. An “antique clothing fashion show” on Saturday was planned and chaired by Ginger Lacombe. Other plans were a cheese and wine party Friday night and a concert on Saturday. Just like this year, 2015, there were many requests for help.

By 1987 we had adopted the name that we call the show today. That year it was billed “The 30th Annual Antique and Classic Car meet” and it took place on the Topnotch Field on the Mountain Road. It also appears that the newsletter “Wheeltracks” was a single word then and had changed from a 4-season publication to monthly. Tom Maclay was by then the Show chair and in a letter to the VAE Board he rec-ommended a hand-book should be published so everyone knows how to set up and run the show at Stowe. He also spoke of the huge lack of help and the difficulty of running the show short-handed. No other details were published about the 1987 show in Stowe. The car pictured to the left on the ‘87 show flyer was the “Best of Show” the previous year, a 1940 Ford Deluxe Convertible owned by Jonathan James of Meredith, NH.

Now, please, Fast-forward to 2015. Our 58th show at Stowe and our President Dan Noyes’ 1923 Model T mail truck is on our flyer. It will be happening in just a few days and “One Way or Another” our two show chairs will have a great event for us to enjoy. Bob Chase and Duane Leach, like always, are asking for your help in our show. Even if you have an hour or two to spare, they can use you. Call either one of these numbers and let them know when you can be there…. 802-253-4897 or 802-849-6174.

Wheel Tracks asked the guys what advancements they are most proud of on their watch. They replied with many. The new Display Ramp, ATM service, the very popular Crafter’s Tent, the Dragster Display, the Valve Cover Racing and the Matchbox Race just to name a few. One of the greatest advancements is our Innovative Educational Events. The VAE became a non-profit 501C3 organization a few years ago, the non-profit arm is called the VAAS, and the club has very effectively focused on education and our Vermont school students.

Come to the SHOW and enjoy three days of fun. Better yet, give us a hand for a few hours and we guarantee you will have even more fun.